History

History of our area

Our site, Gleniffer View (Glenvilla Circle, road etc..) once had a wonderful old estate house called The Glen Villa built in 1888. click here for more info

This beautiful house sat in a spectacular setting in what is now Glen Park on Glenfield Road was built around 1859 by William Fulton, Laird of Glenfield. who owned the nearby dyeing and finishing Works. The factory was called Glenfield Scouring Works and was founded in the 1820s as a bleachworks, and largely rebuilt in 1879 . It latterly owned by William Fulton & Sons Ltd, scourers, dyers and finishers, who used soft water from the Gleniffer Braes in their processing. It closed in March 1966. In 1985 , William Fulton & Sons Ltd became F Miller (Textiles) Ltd. In 1989, the company again changed its names to CV Childrenswear Ltd, with registered offices in Glasgow, Scotland. In 2002, CV Childrenswear Ltd was a dormant company. Glenfield  Dyeing and Finishing Works  click for larger version  advert  click for larger version

They made the household name ‘Glenfield Starch’ which became so popular that another manufacturer moved to Glenfield in order to also call his starch by the same name resulting in a famous ruling from the House of Lords. That’s why the advert below says “When you ask for Glenfield starch, see that you get it”. They claimed it was the only starch used in Queen Victoria’s laundry.

Here is some information about owner William Fulton and the glen concerts. Rising from humble beginnings as a weaver he eventually became a rich industrialist – but never forgot his roots. When he first took over the estate he expressed a wish that “all the people of Paisley would be at liberty to come and walk by the braes and glens, as if it were their own.” In the same public spirited way he declined to charge the organisers for the use of the land – all the more surprising when you consider the scale of the concerts, which were without parallel in their day and were as impressive as modern pop festivals. 

glen concert glen concert 1888 glen concert

 In their heyday, the choir numbered around 700 voices, composed mainly of mill girls and other working class women of the town, and the concerts, consisting of a mainly Scottish repertoire, were performed to astonishingly large audiences of around 30,000. At the time of the Burns statue series however the choir numbered around 400 and their audience peaked at over 20,000. The concerts successfully raised money for good causes from 1874 until 1936, when they were discontinued due to lack of support. One of their first gifts to the town was the fine statue of Robert Tannahill mentioned earlier, but as they embarked on the Burns series they were setting a much more ambitious target.

The Glen - click for larger version site of house - click for larger versionView from ground level of house - click for larger version

MAP OF THE LAND OF TANNAHILL
& GUIDE TO GLENIFFER BRAES.

The foregoing map, embracing portions of Renfrewshire and Ayrshire, was prepared for the benefit of visitors visiting the Land of Tannahill, and the classic Braes of Gleniffer. These braes were the ancient forest of Paisley—the hunting ground of the Stewarts, Barons of the Barony of Renfrew, afterwards called Paisley Braes, and now, in one of the sweetest songs of the lyric poet, “The Braes o Gleniffer.”

The map extends east and west a length of 17 miles—from “Cruikston Castle’s lamely wa’s” in the Abbey Parish of Paisley, to the lands of Boghall in the Parish of Beith, which formerly belonged to the poet’s grandfather, and the scene of the song, “Oh I are ye sleepin, Maggie,” and south and north a breadth of 8 miles, from Neilston to Kilbarchan, two villages where the poet had kind and blythe friends whom he often visited.

Visitors, on arriving at the Cross or Market Place of Paisley, should proceed down Saint Mirin Street and up to the head of Causeyside where the road divides,—the one to the left, marked on the map No. 1, in ancient times leading to the furyness (Fereneze), and the other to the right, marked No. 2, leading to the louchlybosyde (Loch Libo side).

I. They may take the Neilston Road on the left, marked No. 1, passing through Neilston Street, Lylesland, Dovealand, Carriagehill, Colinelie, Potterhill, and Thornley, turning to the right, into the Glen Road, marked No. 6, and they will soon arrive at Glenfield, belonging to William Fulton, Esq. of Glen,—one of the loveliest spots a person can visit. A picturesque path leads to the Well,—which the late Mr. Fulton named “Tannahill Well,” after the Poet,—the cascade of Craigie Linn, and the Braes, on the elevated summit of which a magnificent panoramic view of the country, embracing seven counties, will he obtained. This is where the great demonstration proceedings were held on the Poet’s Centennial Birth-Day celebration. Proceeding westward along the road, No.6, skirting the Braes of Gleniffer, they will enter the Corsebar Road, marked No. 3, at Nethercraigs, opposite the Stanely Road.

II. Or they may take the Calside Road, marked No. 2, at the head of Causeyside, through Calside Street, past Fairhill, until the division of the road,—the road to the left being a continuation of road No. 2, and the East Corsebar Road to the right, marked No. 3. They may either continue along No. 2, passing the Brodie Public Park and Blackland Mill, where the road divides again,—the one to the left, Braehead Road, being still a continuation of No. 2 (which crosses No. 6), thence to Braehead,—or take the West Blackland Road to the right, marked No. 4, which merges in No. 3 at the Corsebar Toll.

III. Or they may take the East Corsebar Road on the right, marked No. 3, which is better; through that road, passing Corsebar Curling Pond and the Paisley Water Works direct to the Glen of Gleniffer, which they will see marked on the map. This road, passing “the bonnie wee well on the breist o the brae,” leads to the Peesweep Inn, and goes round by the Craigenfeoch Road to the Thorn, marked No. 11, famed for its varying scenery.

IV. Or they may proceed from the Cross along High Street to Broomlands Street, down Maxwelton Street to Maxwelton Road, turn to the left into West Comber Road, marked No. 5, passing the Burgh Asylum, till it merges in No. 3, near the Corsebar Toll.

V. Or they may take the Brediland Road, marked No. 7, leading off Maxwelton Road across “Tannahill Bridge,” passing Loundsdale, into Leitchland Roads, marked Nos. 8 said 9, merging in the Alt Patrick Road, No. 10.

VI. Or they may take the Fulbar or Chain Road, marked No. 9, leading off the Beith road at the west end of Millarston, which merges in No. 10 at Low Bardrain.

VII. Or they may take the Alt Patrick Road, marked No. 10, leading off the Beith road at Sclates, near Elderslie. This road leads to the “Dusky Glen” and “Glenfeoch,” and the other scenery of Alt Patrick Burn,—the scene of the “Soldier’s Return.” The road passes Foxber and Stanely Castle “wi its auld turrets” by the Stanely Road, also marked No. 10, merging in No. 3 opposite the west end of the Glen Road, No. 6.

VIII. Or they may take the Craigenfeoch Road, marked No. 11, leading off the Beith road near Thorn, past Craigenfeoch and Craigmuir, merging in No. 3 at the Peesweep Inn. Craigenfeoch,—Gaelic, The Rock of the Raven,—from which a splendid view of Strathgryffe is obtained.“Glenkilloch” will be found on the south side of the Map among Fereneze Braes. “Fairy Woodside,” “Sweet Ferguslie,” and “Bonnie Wood o Craigielee,” nestling on the north-west side of Paisley; and ” “Calderglen,” “Balgreen” (“The Echoes o Bowgreen”), and “Langcraft” (which belonged to the Poet’s granduncle), will be seen in the far west above Lochwinnoch, and “Overton Braes,” near Beith, where “Dear Will” resided.

7 thoughts on “History

  1. No mention of Lavery cottage anywhere. My Grandfather ….Richard Bell….lived there for many years. It was at the bottom of three dams as I remember….I lived there with my mother from 1956 to 1963 and used to wander all over the braes, we kept goats in the scullery and the garden was put over to vegetables……my mother was born there in 1936. But it’s all gone now……I took her ashes there in 2009…..it was all druggies, condoms, and litter….I searched in vain for a place called the V rock, which was where she wanted to be scattered….never did find it as I’d forgotten where to look and it all seemed so different…..I believe their cottage was built by an artist called William Lavery…..I do remember the stone floors having paintings on them. Wondered if anyone else has any recollection of any of this also.
    Malcolm Hockham

  2. Hello,
    It was called Lavery cottage…….as I remember there were three dams and the cottage was just below the bottom dam. I know it was knocked down in about 1966. It’s a long time since I was there, apart from to take my mothers ashes a few years back. There was a water sluice that ran down the back of the gardens……towards a factory and small lake as I remember, it may well be on an old OS map or equivalent …….I can’t remember the road names unfortunately, not that the cottage was on a road, but was set on the lower of two tracks where one diverges and goes up the side of the dams the other went round to the house. It’s kitchen and scullery were set right against the rock. I believe only the stone remained some years ago.
    When I returned my mother I was supposed to find a place she played as a child called the V rock…she explained before she died….I could not find this so had to just find a quiet place….it was all so overgrown and different 50 years on!
    Thanks for your reply, I was just curious as to why and how this place was knocked down….I remember the place was creepy, it had gas lights that used to hiss. The stairs were huge and there were paintings on the floors, it was pretty run down even then.
    I am quite a successful nurseryman (eggleston hall gardens)…..my interest in plants was fired by the steep rock outside the kitchen window at Lavery, in which little pockets of accumulated soil were filled with groups of snowdrops, and so a career was borne so to speak, and the fascination has never gone. I wish I could remember more but we moved to England, and my grandparents moved to somewhere called summer field road, a flat, and died soon after.
    Best wishes…….Malcolm Hockham

  3. This may help Steven.
    If you stood in the middle of their garden looking up at the lower dam…..maybe 50 paces away I remamber there being a grass bank in front of the dam. To your right was a kind of stream/overflow which was man made or at least improved by being concreted, it had ridges at intervals along its length. The house would have been to the left of where your standing, butted up against the rock of a hillside….it was stone built and quite large and had outbuildings ( where my grandfather kept a couple of goats) on the end that went towards the dam. I believe the artist who did the paintings was Sir John Lavery, not William as I originally thought, hence the cottage name.
    There was also a small/medium lake by a factory to the South….I don’t know what this factory did or made but was quite large, I used to feed swans that lived on it. I suppose the problem is that a small child sees everything as large.
    Having spent the first five years of my life there and the next four intermittently ii should remember more but don’t, only that my grandfather was a particularly strict and miserable person. He had six children, Anna, George, Richard, William, John, and Jean (Jane, my mother)….and many relatives in Foxbar, not just Bells, but Chambers, and O’hares……My cousin John O’Hare has no legs and I believe still lives in Foxbar but would be very old now. I lost contact. A long time ago they used to get together but always ended up fighting!….They are all dead, Anna died with her husband Davy Brown in a house fire in Paisley…..My mother in 2009 here in Co Durham…….All the rest had heart attacks. And so ends the line of a family…..it’s sad but inevitable I guess. I know they are all buried in a nearby cemetery whose name escapes me but sounded quite distinguished. My mother loved Gleniffer and Paisley but moved to England with my Father (in the navy) about 1962….she returned regularly for visits (and fights….she was very fiery). I have mixed emotions about the place, and have never known if I was Scottish or English, or just as my mother always reminded me….an accident outside of Barrowlands…..she was nothing if not direct.
    Very best wishes…….Malcolm

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